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Sharing and Conversation

Monday, March 22nd, 2010

I’m hardly a wine connoisseur—during blind tastings in the past, I’ve invariably preferred the least expensive wines—but when friends suggested we meet Sunday afternoon for drinks at Crú, a wine bar in Austin’s Domain shopping center, I was up for the experience. I figured at the very least it would offer a quiet place to talk. I’ve grown tired of trying to communicate, much less connect, in noisy restaurants and clubs.  

And I was right—the atmosphere was definitely conducive to conversation. One of my friends commented that the wine bar looked a little like a library, with the floor-to-ceiling custom wine shelving on one wall. Oversize wine labels and elegant light sconces graced another. We sat at a comfortable table for four, and although the place was full, I don’t even remember the neighboring diners. We had enough quiet to hear ourselves talk and enough space to avoid overhearing others’ conversations.

We shared a bottle of Grenache recommended by our server, who was quite knowledgeable. She fended my wine-savvy friends’ questions admirably, explaining that this particular wine was not fruity, nor was it too dry, either. She described it as “having a lot of earth.” Given my track record with choosing wines, I won’t attempt to describe the taste, but one of my companions said, “It has a slightly fruity start, with complex layers of flavor, and a smooth, slightly drier finish.”

Crú offers full dinner and dessert menus, as well as a “sharing menu,” a concept that seems to be catching on in many restaurants. Crú’s version  includes stone-fired pizzas and cheese flights, but we settled on shrimp potstickers and three-cheese fondue with white truffle oil. The fondue was flanked with apples, pears, green beans, carrots, and rustic bread. Both appetizers were delicious, and neither was overly filling (especially when shared with four people).

The knowledgeable staff came through again after our meal, when one of the cooks in our group wanted to know what cheeses were in the fondue. Our server graciously fetched the chef, who came to our table and reeled off the ingredients: fontina, Gruyère, and Gorgonzola, and, of course, white truffle oil. When the same friend asked about the sauce on the potstickers, he practically gave her the recipe from memory. The kitchen staff here knows what it’s doing.

Fondue always fires a conversation, but I think the sharing-menu concept overall does the same thing. It also allows you to try a variety of items, while saving money and calories. Count me a fan.

A Taste of Argentina

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

It’s becoming a familiar scenario: A friend comes in from out of town, and I discover a new Austin restaurant. Usually, it’s just a matter of my wanting to try a place I’d heard about and good timing. Recently, though, when my friend Candy was here for a convention, she came armed with her own recommendation. Of course, this particular friend knows Austin better than I do (although she lives in Victoria now), so it didn’t surprise me. What’s more, she’s a foodie, so I figured her choice would be a good bet.

Candy’s recommendation was Buenos Aires Café, an Argentine (what else?) restaurant known for using fresh, organic ingredients. (We went to the East Sixth location.) We managed to get a small table near the front, even on a Friday night when things seemed plenty lively. Candy opted for the Pastel de Papas, or shepherd’s pie; she’d read rave reviews about this dish. I chose the Gnocci Quartet, despite her reviewer’s advice to the contrary. How could I resist, after reading the description on the menu: “…pumpkin-cinnamon, sweet potato-chipotle, cilantro-jalapeño, and potato-herb gnocchi tossed with roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, mushrooms, and haricots verts and olive oil, finished with specialty sauces and fresh parmesan.”

Candy’s classic Caesar salad was just that—classic—and my spinach salad, with feta cheese, Fuji apples, and spicy roasted pecans tossed in a sweet and tangy vinaigrette, proved a great beginning to the meal. Candy also ordered a pollo empanada—chicken, red bell peppers, green onions, and herbs enveloped in a rich, flaky pastry. I had a bite, and considered ordering another one of the savory concoctions for myself. 

But then, our entrées came. Candy’s shepherd’s pie—ground beef, green onions, raisins, green olives, herbs, and spices topped with mashed potatoes that had been baked into a crispy crust—was tasty, but after exchanging samples, we both agreed that my gnocchi was the best by far. The tender-yet-firm texture of the gnocchi with all those delectable flavors inside made for a wonderful combination. It was so good that “no dessert” was a no-brainer, despite the great-looking chocolate crème brûlée I saw diners enjoying at a nearby table. The plan for my next visit? Share an order of gnocchi and save room for the crème brûlée. 

Roadside Community

Tuesday, February 9th, 2010

Photo by Alice Liles

Photo by Alice Liles

A few weeks ago, while visiting friends at their lake house in Kingsland, I finally went to see the American bald eagle nest off Texas 29, between Burnet and Llano, that has been in the news in recent years. (My friend Alice Liles supplied the photo, which she took of the nest last year.)

There were already a few cars parked beside the road when we arrived at the site. One of them belonged to an accountant from Brenham, who had set up two tripods, one with a camera and the other with a spotting scope. Wearing a heavy coat and wool cap to ward off the cold wind, he had obviously been there a while. He invited us to take a look through the scope, and filled us in on the latest activity in the nest. He said at present the two eaglets were visible in the nest.

I looked through the scope, and sure enough, I could see the backs of two little heads peeking up above the nest. Not much to see at that point, but still, two mounds of fluff in a nest of twigs and branches. A squirrel running around the edge of the nest and under it made it easy to tell that this was one huge treetop construction. Several of the spectators made jokes about the squirrel not being very smart, considering the parents could come back at any time and make a meal of him. But maybe he was smarter than we thought, and eagles intent on feeding their young aren’t looking for squirrels.

Alice and I took turns looking through the scope with the other spectators and a few new arrivals. The accountant welcomed one and all and proved quite knowledgeable about birds and the history of the nest. He said he’d spent a lot of time watching the eagles over the years; he had a notebook full of photographs that he’d taken to prove it. I figured he was setting us up to buy some of his photos, which were quite good, but no, they weren’t for sale. He took them just for his own and others’ enjoyment.

Later, as I was looking through the scope, I saw one of the parents swoop in and land on the side of the nest. What a dramatic arrival! It caused a mild commotion among the group, all of whom wanted a glimpse of the majestic creature. Thanks to the spotting scope, everyone had a chance to see him. (And yes, the accountant thought he was a male.)

As we huddled around the scope, waiting for our next turn, we visited with our companions. It turned out that there were several schoolteachers in the bunch, and a couple of people figured out that they had gone to Stephen F. Austin State University together a few decades ago. I couldn’t help but think about the unusual nature of this gathering—total strangers connecting on the side of a road as they enjoyed watching a family of birds.

By the way, the accountant/roadside birder told us that the eagles would probably stay around until at least April or May. If you haven’t made it to the viewing yet, it’s worth a trip.

Groundhog Day Report

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

Having just made my annual end-of-January trip to southeast Texas, I can report that despite any prognostications from Punxsutawney Phil, the signs of spring’s approach are visible in at least parts of the Lone Star State. I didn’t see any wildflowers except for dandelions and henbit, but peach trees are beginning to bud and lettuce is harvest-ready in backyard gardens. Best of all, bluebonnet seedlings are popping up in pastures and along roadsides.

I know, we’ve got at least a month of winter left and probably some nasty weather ahead, but I love the anticipation of February. It doesn’t hurt that we’re now working on our annual wildflower story in the April issue—22 pages that spotlight four wildflower drives in different parts of Texas. My prediction: If you don’t already have wildflower fever, you will by the time that issue arrives, in early March. Anticipate it, and be ready to take a drive.

Taco Tour

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

When my son and daughter-in-law returned to Austin for the holidays recently, they had their priorities straight: They planned to eat as many different tacos at as many different places as possible during their 10-day visit. Their Tex-Mex cravings began soon after they moved to Columbus, Ohio, last July. And their obsession only intensified when they ordered fajitas at a local restaurant and the meat was served with pita bread!

But it was tacos that they missed the most, particularly the wealth of savory soft tacos they enjoyed while they lived in Austin. So it wasn’t surprising that our first stop after I picked them up at the airport was Tacodeli, at Spyglass and Barton Skyway, near their former home in southwest Austin. It didn’t take them long to decide what to order. My son, Clay, went for a Cowboy Taco—beef tenderloin, grilled vegetables, guacamole, and queso fresco atop a flour tortilla—and a Mojo Fish Taco—grilled tilapia and mojo-garlic sauce. My daughter-in-law, Whitney, settled for only one, the Heather—refried black beans, grilled queso, guacamole, lettuce, and tomato—plus a side of rice. I ordered two Adobados Tacos—adobo-marinated chicken with cilantro and onions. We claimed one of the picnic tables outside, and soon we were relishing our respective choices.

Even as we ate, they debated where they’d eat tacos next. The possibilities were tantalizing. Would it be Torchy’s or Freebirds? They wanted to try some new places—Izzoz Tacos, Guero’s Taco Bar,  Nuevo Onda —but they didn’t want to miss out on any of their old favorites. Whitney said that Austin should offer a taco tour for visitors, to make it easy for them to take in the top spots in one fell swoop.

I accompanied these two to Zocalo Cafe (Taquería Fresca), on West Lynn, later that week, where I had some amazing Tacos de Carnitas (slow-cooked green chile chicken with pineapple pico de gallo and salsa verde), and they made it to several other taquerías, as well as a second trip to Tacodeli, without me. Yet, despite their best efforts, their taste for tacos was undiminished at the end of their visit. Good. Tacos are as good a ruse as any to keep them coming back to Texas for frequent visits.

How about you, readers? Anyone out there who’s had occasion to miss Texas food? Or maybe you’re a homesick Texan dreaming about certain dishes right now. Tell us what you miss the most.

Brenham Break

Wednesday, January 13th, 2010

On my second trip back to Austin from Houston’s Bush Intercontinental Airport during the holidays, I decided to break up the journey with a stop in Brenham. Have you been to this little town lately—not the Brenham you pass by as you zoom along US 290 or Texas 36 on your way to somewhere else, but the real Brenham, downtown?  There are so many quaint shops and boutiques on West Alamo now that it reminds me of Fredericksburg’s Main Street.

I enjoyed poking around in some of the little gift stores, but my find of the day was a sprawling, “mostly antiques” store called Today and Yesterday, at the corner of West Alamo and Park. It’s housed in the historic Brenham Opry House, which was built in 1876. The stained-glass windows on display originally caught my eye, but I soon found other treasures: architectural remnants (old doors, newel posts, etc.), vintage garden structures, and collectibles from Depression glass to cigar boxes. If I’d had a truck, I probably would have come home with one of the weathered metal trellises for the grapevine in my backyard. Next trip.

Big Mo’s BBQ

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

When I was in Victoria a couple of weeks ago, I tried a new barbecue restaurant a friend had recommended—Big Mo’s BBQ at 1301 Sam Houston Drive. It’s in a former Pizza Hut not far from my old high school, though I can’t say that I remember ever eating pizza there. The reality is that the pizza venue probably came and went since I graduated.

But back to Big Mo’s. The friend not only recommended the restaurant, but also gave me samples of its smoked chicken and brisket—both extra lean and thinly sliced—which she had in her fridge. They were moist and delicious. I also tasted the green beans, which had a delightful, smoky flavor themselves.  I’m not a fan of potato salad, so I passed on that, but my friend assured me it was good, too. After this preview, I stopped in at Big Mo’s a few days later and ordered a sliced brisket sandwich. It wasn’t quite as lean as the brisket I’d tried earlier, but still mighty tasty. Next time, I’ll order the “Extra Lean Trim” version.

While waiting for my order, I looked around the spic-and-span dining room and studied the menu. Turns out that Big Mo’s is a spin-off of a longtime area barbecue favorite called McMillan’s Bar-B-Q & Catering, in Fannin, southwest of Victoria. Louis McMillan has, in effect, passed the torch to his daughter and son-in-law, Teri and David Moten, the owners of Big Mo’s. My judgment: The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. 

 

Live Music and Lava Lamps

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

On a recent trip to San Angelo, I discovered an unusual venue in the middle of downtown. During the day, the House of Fifi Dubois is a vintage furniture store, but on many Saturday nights, it transforms into what has to be its true calling—a groovy setting for listening to live music. With the lights dimmed and all those couches and tables from the 50s, 60s, and 70s arranged in a semicircle to face a wooden stage at one end, it works perfectly. A good sound system also helps. As do good musicians, such as the six female performers I heard when I was there—the San Angelo Divas, a bluesy, folk-rock group with a big sound.

The system is simple. Store owners Phyllis Cox (Fifi) and Toni Hunter place a jar near the entrance to collect money to pay the band. It’s strictly BYOB, although set-ups (Cokes, Sprite, water, etc) and a few snacks are on hand. The store provides the funky atmosphere (merchandise on display ranges from lava lamps to avocado-green ice buckets), the musicians do their thing, and listeners (twenty-somethings to seniors) drift in and out from 7 to 10. A few people are inspired to dance on the sidelines, but mostly, groups of friends just sit around enjoying the music in a comfy, super-cool setting. I can’t wait to go again. For details, call 325/658-3434; http://fifidubois.com.

Church in the Wildwood

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009

stainedglassWorking for Texas Highways has many rewards, but seeing an idea morph into print that is read around the world has to be one of the greatest. It was especially gratifying to see the Speaking of Texas article I wrote about Texana, the first town in Jackson County, in the July issue since my mother lives near the former town site. She had sparked my interest by telling me about attending a wedding at the 150-year-old Historic Texana Church, one of the few remnants of Texana’s existence.

Of course, the magazine business involves collaboration on many fronts, so “my idea” was enhanced by the efforts of others—other editors, the art designer, and, of course, the photographer. In fact, it’s thanks to photographer (and TH photo editor) Griff Smith that the print version of this idea morphed into a second reincarnation: a stained-glass depiction of the quaint antebellum church.

My friend Kathleen Martin, who also lives near the old town site, sent me this photo of a stained-glass piece made for her by her 86-year-old father, Ralph Shanafelt, a self-taught stained-glass artist in Seguin. (In addition to creating original works, he stays busy restoring broken stained-glass windows for area antiques stores.) He said he was inspired by the TH article, which I think is pretty cool. I also love the stained glass, which Kathleen now has hanging in her dining room.

We didn’t have room in the story to describe the church in detail, but it’s beautifully restored, and in its woodsy setting (only a few miles north of its original location), looks like the proverbial Church in the Wildwood. To see the July article, go to http://www.texashighways.com/departments/speaking-of-texas. To tour the church, call 361/782-5456: www.brackenridgepark.com.

 

 

Accidental Education

Wednesday, September 2nd, 2009

Visits with my 13-year-old niece, Kaitie, tend to be enlightening, and not just about what’s going on with teenagers these days. When she comes to Austin, I always try to plan some new experiences for her and often wind up learning something new myself.

On one of her recent visits, I took Kaitie, who’s a budding artist, to a small gallery on West Sixth called Haven, which offers a wonderful selection of artworks, from sculpture to jewelry. (The Haven’s self-description on its Web site is “an eclectic mix of two- and three-dimensional fine art and fine craft.”) We were both entranced with the array of large, colorful, freeform glass pieces and some amazing “woven glass,” gently curving sculptures that look like pieces of fabric, with irregular strips of glass forming the warp and weft.  I fell in love with a periwinkle-blue glass bust that featured a silhouette of a face inside. Kaitie’s favorites were a group of bird sculptures, made of antique odds and ends, brass, and other metals (not surprising, since she was sketching birds a lot at the time). Some of the items here are costly, but many others are surprisingly affordable considering the excellent quality—as low as $25. And we’re talking handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces of art. Something to keep in mind for holiday shopping.

 The owner of the shop, Mindi Partee, answered our questions, gave us a minitour, and told us about some of the artists, many of whom are from Texas, which I always find appealing. I don’t know if Kaitie was inspired, but I certainly was, if only to add a few special things to my wish list. Haven Gallery & Gifts is at 1122 W. Sixth St.; 512/477-2700; www,havengalleryaustin.com.