I recently returned from a whirlwind trip to Dallas, where I visited several new attractions, including the Perot Museum of Art and Science, the brand-new George W. Bush Presidential Library, and the new Klyde Warren Park, a 5.2-acre downtown green space built—somehow…amazingly—over the recessed Woodall Rodgers Freeway between Pearl and St. Paul streets in the Arts District. I also enjoyed a sneak-peek tour of the observation deck of the 560-foot-tall Reunion Tower, which has been closed since 2007 and will reopen after a major renovation this fall. When the observation deck reopens, it’ll have high-powered telescopes, a 50-foot-long digital panel presenting Dallas history and geography, and a new bar and café. The view from up there is terrific, and it’s a great place to gain perspective on all the new things going on in Dallas.  I can’t wait to revisit in the fall.

The Perot is a stunner: Designed by architect Thom Mayne, who won a Pritzker Prize in 2005 and is known for “layered architecture” that breaks the rules of traditional form, the building includes a glass-enclosed elevator on the building’s freeway side. Angles of stone and glass, a landscaped roofscape with rock shards and drought-resistant plants, and 11 exhibit halls make the Perot interesting for kids and adults alike. My favorite exhibit: Artist Daniel Rozin’s “Wooden Mirror,” an assemblage of wooden tiles that move when YOU move in front of it. The piece, according to the placard next to the display, uses a microprocessor with a camera to interpret an onlooker’s image in pixels, then tiny motors lift each tile to catch light—mirroring what the camera sees. Fascinating, fun, and I love the comforting “whpp-whpp-whpp” sound that the piece makes when people dance in front of it.

We also took a trip to the Bush Presidential Library, which opened to the public earlier this month. Workers are still putting finishing touches on the building itself, and I took a moment to watch an engraver wield a hammer and chisel to imprint the names of donors on an outside wall. No matter your political leanings, the exhibits here are fascinating, especially the halls dedicated to the terror events of September 11, 2001 and the infamous “hanging chad” drama that kept the country in presidential limbo in 2000.  I will say that the famous “Decisions Point Theater,” which has been lampooned recently in Doonesbury and The Daily Show with Jon Stewart, presented a more-balanced view of events than I’d expected; I certainly got a taste for how the President and his policymakers must weigh the advice of many different experts during a crisis. See for yourself when you visit.

After a picnic at the Klyde Warren Park, where food trucks offer items such as burgers, gourmet hot dogs, and Vietnamese rice bowls, we visited Fair Park, which opened its midway and many of its rides for a pre-State Fair season dubbed “Summer Adventures in Fair Park.” Along with a few other daredevils in the crowd, I rode the rollercoaster and the hilariously scary-kitschy lost mine train ride, rearranged my internal organs on the dragon-boat ride, then took in the view from the famous, 212-foot-tall  Texas Star Ferris wheel (the largest Ferris wheel in North America).

Yes, I have a new view of Dallas. 

Nearly two years after massive wildfires, the director of Possum Kingdom Chamber of Commerce says tourism has rebounded but drought continues to trouble the area.

The level of Possum Kingdom Lake is down about 10 feet, but there are still two public boat ramps open, says Gayla Chambers, chamber director. Chambers says she’s hopeful when it comes to the summer tourism season.

“We’re beginning to have lots of inquiries regarding camping and lodging for the upcoming holiday,” she says. “We need rain like everybody else, but in a nutshell, we have more water than a lot of Texas lakes do, so we’re hopeful that everything will still work itself out and it will be a good season.”

Two fires in 2011 burned more than 125,000 acres—including part of Possum Kingdom State Park—and destroyed more than 160 homes.

Chambers says the wildfires hurt tourism for a period stretching into spring 2012, but the tourism industry has since recovered. At this point, the drought and lake level are a bigger factor than the 2011 wildfires, Chamber says.

On Tuesday, firefighters battled another Possum Kingdom wildfire, which was reported to have burned more than 130 acres.

“It’s just part of the deal,” Chambers says. “We’re in the drought and there’s wind, and unfortunately we had another little flare-up. We’re just urging everybody to be particularly cautious.”

With the reopening of the Boquillas border crossing in Big Bend National Park, curious travelers have raised questions about the activities and safety associated with crossing the Rio Grande into Mexico.

The United States and Mexican governments opened the Boquillas port of entry on April 10, reestablishing local tourist access between the two countries for the first time since 2002.

Local officials estimate that more than 500 tourists have visited Mexico since opening day, most of them on a jonboat operated by Boquillas International Ferry, the company awarded the permit to operate the ferry.

“We’re seeing a great response,” says David Elkowitz, chief information officer for Big Bend. “Lots of visitors. Folks are enjoying Boquillas. We really don’t have any negatives.”

A ferry boat lands this week on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande at the Boquillas border crossing. Tourists can take a horse ride for the mile trip to the village of Boquillas del Carmen. Photo Courtesy of National Park Service.

I talked with Elkowitz and Mike Davidson, director of the Brewster County Tourism Council, this week about the tourism experience for those interested in visiting Boquillas.

The tourism economy in the village of Boquillas del Carmen, on the Mexican side of the crossing, is just starting to take shape, says Davidson, who also is CEO of Boquillas International Ferry.

The town’s population dwindled considerably since 2002, when the U.S. shut down the crossing in the aftermath of 9/11. About 130 people live in Boquillas now, Davidson estimates, or about half of what it used to be.

In the old days, Boquillas had a reputation as a “Wild West” getaway, a place to drink tequila beyond the border. Such activity has declined, especially with no overnight lodging available, Davidson says.

“For some people it may not be as raunchy or free-swinging as they want it to be, but for most people it will be like stepping back in a time machine,” he says. “And it will be different in a year. People on the Mexican side didn’t have the confidence to invest time and money before. Now that the proof is there, and there’s some money starting to trickle into the economy, there’s no telling what will happen in three to five years.”

Round-trip ferry tickets are available for $5 at the Rio Grande Village Store; children age 7 or younger are free.  The ferry runs 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Visitors can also wade across the Rio Grande or take their own boat.

After crossing the river, visitors can rent a burro, horse, or car ride for the one-mile trip to town, or they can walk. Upon arrival, visitors first need to check in with the local Mexican customs office. Visitors should bring a passport, because they’ll need one to return to the U.S. anyway.

Davidson says the Mexicans have also established a visitor center that sells local handmade crafts, and where tourists can hire a guide to show them around town. Boquillas is home to two restaurants and a bar with a pool table. As mentioned earlier, there is no overnight lodging available.

“A lot of people are going over there to ride the ponies up to town, walk around town, and go to the restaurant,” Davidson says.

For hikers, the current options are limited. You can walk a short road to the entrance of Boquillas Canyon, or rent a truck to give you a lift. But Davidson says the tourist infrastructure is not yet in place to transport hikers who want to venture further into the national parks on the Mexican side.

The hot springs on the Mexican side of Boquillas Canyon have fallen into disrepair. Davidson says he expects them to be rebuilt as tourist traffic increases.

Returning to Big Bend National Park, crossers must check in at the National Park Service Visitor Center, about a five-minute walk from the river on the Texas side. At the visitor center, tourists place their documents on a scanner and conduct a short customs interview via telephone with Border Patrol officials based in El Paso. People re-entering the U.S. must arrive to the visitor center by 6 p.m.

Davidson and Elkowitz say crossing to Boquillas has been a safe activity so far.

“We’re trying minimize the risk of (visitors) getting hurt getting on or off the boat, which is statistically the biggest risk of getting hurt,” Davidson says. “Our border is pretty quiet down here. We don’t have too many problems. This is putting 15 more security people right down in this area.”

Elkowitz says there have been no incidents that he’s heard about, though he cautions that visitors are entering another country.

“The town is welcoming. There is staff from the Mexican immigration and parks service there,” Elkowitz says. “I do know that Mexico has a great investment in this, as do we, and we’re certainly not anticipating problems.”

Davidson says Boquillas International Ferry has hired Mexican residents to operate the boat and others are in training. The company, which is an offshoot of New Mexico-based Far Flung Adventures, plans to expand into more guiding and tourism services on the Mexican side of the river, he says.

As for the Big Bend tourism economy, the reopening of the crossing gives visitors another reason to spend time in the region.

“At the minimum it would induce them to spend another night in the area, which requires them to buy food and services, etc.,” Davidson says.

The public gets its first chance this week to the see the newly restored Texas Governor’s Mansion.

The Governor’s Mansion began public tours on Tuesday, nearly a year after Gov. and Mrs. Perry returned to the home last summer. Anita Perry remarked on the first public tours and posted a couple of photos on her blog.

The Governor’s Mansion first opened as home to Texas’ top elected official in 1856. The Perrys moved out of the mansion in 2007 to make way for an extensive maintenance project. While that project was taking place, arsonists set fire to the mansion on June 8, 2008, gutting the building.

Shortly thereafter, the restoration project commenced, backed by a $21.5 million appropriation from the Texas Legislature. The project included the re-creation of the “X-and-Stick” porch railings, the ionic columns on the front porch, and the restoration of all historic rooms to their pre-fire appearance.

Tours are available Tuesdays through Thursdays, and require one-week advance reservations.

Some are shy on stage; others are natural performers. Some feature technical playing; others draw on their emotions. They’re all budding accordion slingers aiming for the title in this year’s Big Squeeze competition.

Eight of the state’s best young accordionists are traveling to Austin this weekend for the semifinals of the Big Squeeze. The semifinalists, ranging in age from 11 to 18, will perform a free show at Lonestar Plaza of the Bullock Museum from 2 to 5:30 p.m. Saturday

Johnny Ramirez, the 2008 Big Squeeze champ, and Keyun Dickson, the 2010 winner, jam together at a Houston show.

Texas Folklife, an Austin-based nonprofit dedicated to preserving and showcasing Lone Star culture, started the accordion competition in 2007 as an educational arm of its annual Accordion Kings & Queens concert in Houston (June 1 at Miller Outdoor Theatre).

“We’re interested in preserving the traditional music of Texas, and we wanted to make sure the younger generations were picking up the accordion, so we set out to see how many young people we could find,” says Sarah Rucker, program and events manager for Texas Folklife. “We figured the most fun way to do that would be a contest, and through that we found the most talented young players in Texas in a range of musical genres, including conjunto, zydeco, Tejano, polka.”

This year’s competition, which is limited to players 21 and younger, started in February with opening-round performances in Houston, Edinburg, Corpus Christi, San Antonio, Tomball, Dallas, and Los Fresnos. Other interested contestants had the option of sending in videotapes of their playing.

The judging panel that selected eight semifinalists from the field of 33 entries was made up of a big-name list of professional accordionists, including Joel Guzman, Sunny Sauceda, Anthony Trevino and Juan Tejeda.

At the semifinals, Susan Torres, accordionist for the Austin band Susan Torres y Conjunto Clemencia, will help select the four finalists who will compete for the championship at the June 1 Accordion Kings & Queens concert. Torres and her band will also perform at the Saturday show.

So who qualified for the semifinals? The accordionists are Juan Longoria, III (12) and Juan Dueñes (11), both of Brownsville; Yesenia Garcia (17) of Houston; Rito Peña (14) of San Antonio; Michael Ramos (17) of Dallas; Luis Gonzalez (17) of Grand Prairie; Oscar Gomez (14) of Elsa; and Juan Antonio Garcia (18) of Mission.

Ignacio “Nachito” Morales of Dallas, the 2011 Big Squeeze champion, shows how it’s done.

The Big Squeeze has fostered a network of up-and-coming accordion players across Texas. In some cases, competitors have ended up forming groups together.

“We want to create a community of this music,” Rucker says. “When they meet these other kids that are playing in other parts of the state, it’s a bonding experience. … It’s building not only a network of family and friendships, but eventually a network of performing musicians.”

If you’re interested in learning more, check out the Saturday show, or the finals in Houston. There’s also a 2009 documentary by filmmaker Hector Galán about the Big Squeeze, featuring contestants from the 2007 and 2008 Big Squeeze competitions.

The success of past Big Squeeze champions affirms the competition’s purpose of promoting the young accordionists. “I’m proud to say that all of them are performing musicians, and almost all have released CDs of their own at this point,” Rucker says.

No doubt, these young accordionists can play, and it’s a joy to watch them take the spotlight.

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Photos by David Dodd, Courtesy of Texas Folklife.

Texas wildflowers are so delicately beautiful that it’s no surprise their annual blooms are subject to the whims of spring weather.

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Austin says spring showers bode well for some wildflower blooms, while cool spring temperatures are delaying others.

“Look for the wildflower season to improve as we get deeper into spring and into the early summer, when wildflowers that need less rainfall traditionally reach their peak,” Damon Waitt, the center’s senior director, said in a press release.

Here are some highlights from Tuesday’s press release:

• “Cool temperatures have also encouraged Texas bluebonnets, blackfoot daisies and other early bloomers to stick around longer in locations where there was enough fall rain for them to flower.  In other areas, the cool weather delayed the peak of some blooms.”
• “Among the good viewing options are: bluebonnet patches along roadways near Brenham, Texas. Other Washington County sightings include many coreopsis along Highway 290 East near Hempstead and winecups and other wildflowers where that highway intersects with FM 1488.”

Be sure to check out our April cover story about beautiful wildflower drives, and join us May 4-12 for the Texas Highways annual wildflower photo exhibit at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Sometimes, part of the fun of taking a vacation is the planning—researching itineraries, hotels, restaurants; making plans for special activities; even reconnecting with friends in a different environment. On the flip side, then there are the pleasures associated with last-minute travel—the fun and freedom of spontaneity, the relaxation of expectations, and the refreshing sense that all is right with the world when something serendipitous unfolds.

I recently took an overnight trip to Houston, and since I had business to accomplish, I didn’t want to splurge on a hotel. Hoteliers will tell you that to get the best deal on rooms for leisure travel, it’s best to establish a relationship with a property or hotel group so that you’re made aware of specials. But for no-frills lodging, I sometimes take advantage of services such as the company lastminutetravel.com, which act as brokers for unsold rooms. Going this route works best for, wait for it….last-minute travel. I booked a room two days before my departure and managed to score a $61 room rate at a property (Crowne Plaza River Oaks, in this case) not far from Rice Village, the Houston Museum District, and the behemoth Medical Center.  The room was just fine, and even had a small fridge and a nice view of the full moon, but the hallways seemed a little timeworn-but for $61 I’m  not complaining.

Here’s how it works: You request your destination and date, and then you choose which general area of town you’d like to stay in. The name of the hotel stays hidden until you book, but you can see images of the rooms and public spaces, and you can also see a list of amenities. After you book the room, you’ll see where you’ve ended up. In Houston alone, I’ve used this service to reserve rooms at the Hyatt downtown, the Hampton Suites near the Galleria, and now the Crowne Plaza at Kirby and US 59. We’ve used lastminutetravel to book rooms in Saint Louis, Plano, and Oklahoma City, too. Highly recommend.

Have you ever tried this or a similar website to reserve travel?

The Dallas Film Society is busy preparing for this year’s Dallas International Film Festival, which kicks off next week.

The event runs April 4-14 and features 175 films at venues across the city. I had a chance to interview Lee Papert, festival executive director, by email recently, and here’s what he had to say about the event.

How many film submissions did the festival receive?

This year, overall, we received just over 1,300 film entries.

What distinguishes DIFF from other film festivals?

The Dallas International Film Festival (DIFF) is an “encyclopedic” festival. We offer a little bit of everything—which isn’t unusual. But, most importantly (and why we are different) is the atmosphere. We strive mightily to create an ambiance that celebrates film—and all the creativity that goes into it. No matter whether you’re the director of a blockbuster or you’ve just screened your first short film; whether you’re a costume designer, cinematographer, producer, or grip—we celebrate the artist. The passion we have for the process and the people involved, well, it makes for a truly welcoming atmosphere—one that also embraces the people attending the movies, participating in the panel discussions, or having their faces painted at Family Day! (Family Day features a free screening of The Sandlot at 2 p.m. Saturday, April 6, at Klyde Warren Park.)

Has the festival grown from last year, by how much?

While we certainly won’t know attendance figures till after the 2013 DIFF is completed, we have grown in respect to our “footprint.” We’re bigger in scope and facilities. This year, we’re adding new facilities, including the Klyde Warren Park, and we’re returning to Plano for a special Centerpiece Screening at the “absolutely incredible place to watch a movie” Cinemark West Plano theater.

What are some exciting or interesting aspects of this year’s event?

As mentioned, we’re expanding our “footprint” geographically—and are partnering with a couple of brand new venues. One of those, the new LOOK Cinemas offers a wonderful new multi-theater complex and an incredible new take on the “in-theater dining” theme. LOOK is our Opening Night venue and we’ll happily show at least five different movies that night—and then treat our guests to fine dining from Nick & Sam’s Grill. Finally, we continue to embrace the word “International” that is part of our name by striving to show wonderful films from all over the world. Last year we featured films from 27 different countries. We expect even more this year.

What is the festival doing to honor Italy (this year’s featured nation)?

Each year, we like to shine a spotlight on the films and filmmakers of a different country. Last year it was Korea—this year, Italy—a country rich with film in her blood. Home to Fellini, the spaghetti western, Franco Zeffirelli’s classic Romeo & Juliet, and so much more. We will show at most seven films—showcasing everything from a classic Fellini film to one or two new movies. Throw in some classic Italian food and drink—and you have our Italian Spotlight!

What are some of the films being screened this year?

We are thrilled to be screening Java Heat with Mickey Rourke and Kellen Lutz; Midnight’s Children—Deepa Mehta’s film written by Salman Rushdie from his book of the same name; Mud with Matthew McConaughey; and many, many others.

How many people attended the festival last year?

The 2012 Dallas International Film Festival saw more than 35,000 people attend more than 180 different movies, multiple parties, our panel discussions, Family Day, our High School Day and all of the Festival’s offerings.

Who were some of the movie stars/celebrities that attended last year?

Last year, we were thrilled to bring to Dallas Laura Linney, Gabourey Sidibe, Peter Weller, Michael Weston, Famke Jannssen, Don & Donnie Nelson, Julie White, Glen Keane, and many others.

Who are some of the movie stars/celebrities expected to attend this year?

This year, we fully expect to welcome award-winning director William Friedkin, Indian director Deepa Mehta, Twilight heartthrob Kellen Lutz, the first woman to ever run a major movie studio Sherry Lansing, and a host of other stars and fan favorites.

What’s a special tip you would give to someone visiting Dallas for the festival?

Dallas is an incredible city for film. But, it’s also a great city for art and dining. Come to Dallas for the Film Festival, but each day, before the movies start, why not check out our incredible museums like the Crow Collection of Asian Art, the Nasher Sculpture Center, and the Dallas Museum of Art in the downtown Dallas Arts District. Or, if you’re here for the second weekend of the Festival, explore the many galleries attending the Dallas Art Fair. All that art appreciation is sure to make you hungry—so don’t miss our many, many FANTASTIC restaurants. There’s definitely something for everyone!

Here’s another example of the enduring appeal of “retro.” There’s a new drive-in movie theater scheduled to open adjacent to downtown Fort Worth this spring.

The Coyote Drive-In is building a 20-acre complex in the Trinity Uptown neighborhood, across the river from downtown. Two of the three screens will be six stories tall (that’s relatively big), and the complex will accommodate up to 1,300 cars. Audio will be broadcast on an FM radio signal.

“We want to bring people back to a simpler time,” Coyote CEO Brady Wood says. “Life is crazy these days. The world is kind of crazy, and drive-ins bring people back to a simpler time.”

Drive-ins were routine entertainment in the 1950s and early 1960s, when there were nearly 400 such theaters in Texas. Their numbers dwindled over the years—succumbing to daylight saving time, real estate development, VCRs, etc. These days, about 15 drive-ins operate in the state.

Along with first-run movies, the Coyote will also have a pavilion restaurant/beer garden area with a playground for children. The restaurant will serve food like hamburgers and pizza, and the bar will serve a wide variety of craft beers and wine.

Wood says ticket prices will vary, but will typically be $8 for adults and $5 for kids.

Patrons will be able to visit the restaurant and beer garden without a movie ticket. Diners will be able to see the screens, but not hear them. Dinner service will also be available to movie-goers.

“This is the first of what we hope will be many (Coyote Drive-Ins),” Wood says. “We would love to bring the drive-in experience to other cities in Texas. … People love drive-ins, they love their memories of the drive-in, and we’re bringing it back.”

Exploring new territory by canoe or kayak is different than other modes of travel. There’s a serenity to gliding quietly through the water, less likely to startle wildlife. And the perspective is unique, lower than hiking trails or roads.

I’ve paddled around several Texas lakes and rivers over the years, but I’ve never launched a boat in the murky waters of Caddo Lake, the state’s only naturally occurring lake. A circuit of new paddling trails may be just the motivation I need to head northeast and paddle the Caddo.

The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department opened 10 new paddling trails on Caddo Lake and a stretch of Big Cypress Bayou over the weekend. The trails encompass more than 50 miles within scenic bottomland forest and bald cypress swamps. The new trails—which are marked by small arrow signs—bring the Texas Paddling Trails program around the state to 48 different trails, covering more than 430 miles.

The department started the program in 1998 to encourage more recreational paddling on Texas waterways. The trails have dedicated put-in and take-out points, and the department provides maps and other information.

“We wanted to take a little bit of the mystery out of Texas waterways,” says Shelly Plante, the department’s nature tourism manager. “People want to get on the water, but don’t necessarily know how do it conveniently or legally.”

The 10 new trails range in distance from 2.4 miles to 8.8 miles. They’re all loops, a route made possible by the lack of current in the Caddo and Big Cypress Bayou waters, Plante says. Some of the trails leave from Backwater Jack’s R.V. Park near Jefferson, while the others are on Caddo Lake in the Uncertain area.

The Caddo Lake area is home to 216 different kinds of birds, 47 mammals, and 90 reptile and amphibian species, according to TPWD. You might see wood ducks, painted buntings, woodpeckers, barred owls, and white-tailed deer. There are also some rare species around, including the alligator snapping turtle, peregrine falcons, and Rafinesque’s big-eared bats.

The Caddo Lake paddling trails are relatively easy to navigate because paddlers don’t have to deal with a current, Plante says. Directions, trail descriptions, maps, and other information are available on the Texas Paddling Trails website.

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Photos © Texas Parks and Wildlife Department