On a recent visit to Houston, I made plans with my sister, Jean to go the Houston Museum of Natural Science to see Titanic, The Artifact Exhibition before it leaves (on view through Sep. 23), and also explore the new Hall of Paleontology.

Long before the 1997 Oscar-winning film, I have always been fascinated with the history of the shipwrecked ocean liner and the class system within it. A traveling exhibit in honor of the 100^th anniversary of the tragedy, Titanic, The Artifact Exhibition contains items uncovered from the ship including clothing, jewelry, luggage and leather goods, stationery, perfume bottles (one of the bottles still bears a faint scent) and china used in the first-, second-, and third-class dining rooms. I learned that china imprinted with the simple, smart design of the ship’s White Star Line logo was served in third-class to discourage theft from passengers. (I must admit if I had been a passenger, the opposite would’ve been true!) The items for the most part are remarkably well-preserved, thanks to a combination of the type of chemicals used to tan leather suitcases a century ago, plus the enormous water pressure from the ocean floor helped form a tight seal around the trunks and cabinets containing the contents.

Other class distinctions: differences in size, décor, and even bathroom fixtures in the classes of staterooms. Many first-class staterooms had private bathrooms, outfitted with marble toilets, whereas in third-class, some 710 passengers shared two full bathrooms and several water closets, although there were chamber pots in each room. Despite the disparate accommodations, the Titanic was considered a well-appointed ship even by third-class standards compared with similar vessels at the time.

A wall chart contrasts the costs of a first-class, second-class, and third-class ticket in 1912 and 2012 dollars. A standard first-class ticket cost today’s equivalent of $57,000; a third-class ticket, $900, still a pricey amount when one considers many third-class passengers were families immigrating to the U.S. that included at least several children and a relative or two.

Not surprisingly, most of the artifacts and displays are fragile, displayed in low light and cordoned off or encased in glass. However, a touch display of a simulated iceberg truly felt bone-chilling. According to a quote from an exhibit caption, “Striking the water was like a thousand knives being driven into one’s body. The temperature was 28 degrees, four degrees below freezing,” —Charles Lightoller, Titanic Second Officer.

As we entered the exhibit, each person was handed a boarding pass bearing the name and a brief bio of an actual passenger on the Titanic. At the end of the exhibit, a mural-size chart reveals whether your passenger perished or survived the shipwreck. Jean and I both received boarding passes from second-class passengers who happened to have survived.  My passenger, Miss Dagmar Jenny Ingeborg Bryhl, age 20 from Skara, Sweden, who boarded second-class, accompanied by her brother, Kurt, and her fiancé Ingvar Enander, survived. As I read what happened to her companions, Kurt, who was traveling as an interpreter for the couple and planned to immigrate to the U.S., sadly, did not.

We exited Titanic directly into the newly reborn and expanded Hall of Paleontology, which features more than 30 dinosaurs, along with large mammals. Displays of these fossilized creatures are not in the usual static poses, but in situational, active settings such as eating, and chasing (and being chased). The Hall of Paleontology’s curator, Robert Bakker was one of Steven Spielberg’s advisors on 1993’s Jurassic Park. Rather than seeming fierce and menacing as in the movie, I found the creatures’ poses more personable and even endearingly irreverent. The spare, modern presentation of these massive once-beings against a white backdrop, accented with strategic lighting, evoke the feeling that you’re in an art gallery and not a natural history museum.

Sea life is also shown here in a virtual aquarium, and there are even touchable specimens, including fossilized dinosaur skin. Other smaller creatures that caught my attention: the ammonite, with its textured shell and graceful tentacles, and the squid-shaped head of the boomerang-headed amphibian gave it a Dalí-esque appearance. Besides the creatures’ skeletal shapes, the shapes they left behind are also on view, in the form of coprolites, or fossilized excrement. They look just as you’d think they would—you can’t miss it!

When I lived in Houston, I paid many fond visits to the old Hall of Paleontology’s Life Through Time exhibit, with a T. rex replica sharing the centerpiece with the museum’s first dinosaur, Diplodocus hayi. This dazzling, new Hall of Paleontology is truly eons of light-years ahead, and even boasts a well-preserved, real-bone, T. rex now!

Photo by Peter Brown

Texas Photographers: Descriptions of China, now showing at the Institute of Texan Cultures in San Antonio, offers  perceptive views of a vast and fast-developing nation through the eyes of five photographers whose careers and creative visions are widely varied: Peter Brown from Houston, Al Rendon, Ricardo Romo, and Ansen Seale from San Antonio, and Joel Salcido from Austin. I had a chance to view the exhibit with my daughter, Lucy, as Fiesta celebrations drew to a close.

The images, shot last fall in and around Shanghai, Lishui City, Wenzhou, and Beijing, were part of a cultural exchange between the Confucius Institute at The University of Texas at San Antonio and the China Photographers Association. The photographers were also invited to show their Texas work at the association’s International Photographic Art Exhibition in Lishui.

Although the photographers shot from the same locales, which range from a Chinese opera performance to street market scenes to breathtaking rural landscapes, the images convey distinctive viewpoints. The styles range from classic photojournalism to abstract digital wizardry.

Photo by Joel Salcido

Peter Brown’s glistening images of fresh pork and beef cuts in an outdoor market looked appealing even to my vegetarian daughter. I initially found Ansen Seale’s prints of exaggeratingly expanded street views a bit jarring, but upon further inspection was mesmerized by the surreal effect. Ricardo Romo’s tranquil image of modest, tile-roofed homes flanking a verdant countryside evoked resemblances to rural France. Al Rendon’s depiction of tango dancers provides a joyful context to the bustling Tiananmen Square backdrop. Joel Salcido’s images reveal versatility and humor, whether from a view of a stylist on break in a hair salon or the nostalgic scroll-like quality of a sepia-toned, circle-framed Great Wall. Salcido, a longtime TH contributor, also displayed images from our small-town Texas photo feature series in the Lishui exhibit.

We noticed there were no captions accompanying the photos. While at first it felt a bit puzzling wondering what was shot where, as we viewed each image, we found this encouraged more active interpretation from the viewer.

Texas Photographers: Descriptions of China is on view at the ITC through May 27^th.  While at the museum, don’t miss A Maverick’s Texas, photographs taken by students of Pasadena Memorial High School near Houston. The images were inspired by the work of TH Photo Editor Griff Smith, who recently met with the students. Also be sure to see Timeless Texas Toys, which includes an exhibit of paper dolls of famous Texans created by Smithville illustrator Tom Tierney, and a video interview with the artist.

TH’s February issue features the western portion of the Big Bend region, which covers vast and remote areas where you’d do well to plan on spending at least the better part of a week. So does this necessarily mean a shorter excursion is out of the question? Not if you have a general plan which includes more urbane pleasures such as exploring West Texas food and art, as well as with surrounding yourself with spectacular vistas.

My boyfriend David and I spent a little less than three days in Big Bend over the Christmas holiday, and the trip was well-paced and relaxing. Of course, we would have loved to spend more time, but prior commitments in Austin prevented us from doing so.

Alpine and Marfa were on our radar, plus Fort Davis and even a hike in Big Bend National Park if time allowed. We also wanted to begin our trip in Marathon, in time for dinner and stay at the Gage Hotel. The hotel was booked for the holiday, but the Gage recently acquired Captain Shepard’s Inn, right behind the hotel, which had rooms available. We stayed in a warm and spacious room with a balcony.

Photo by Griff Smith

Marathon is about an hour from just about everywhere on our itinerary, so the location made for easy planning, and an ideal home base. On our first full day, we drove to Alpine, and strolled down Holland Avenue. We stopped in Big Bend Arts Council Gallery and found an eclectic and affordable selection of paintings, pottery, sculpture, and jewelry created by local artists. Avram Dumitrescu, originally from Ireland, whose vibrant paintings of landscapes, food, and animals I admire, had pieces on display, and was also minding the gallery that morning. Later, we popped into Front Street Books, where I found a copy of a book Avram illustrated (and also signed), M.F.K. Fisher Among the Pots and Pans, by Joan Reardon. We also poked in the window of TONK (Things Ordinary Not Known) studio to admire the whimsical assemblages. The gallery sign said “Closed,” but owner/artist Rachel Anne Manera saw us and invited us in.

After a zesty, hearty tortilla soup lunch at Reata, we headed west to Marfa. Just a few businesses were open (we found many Marfa’s shops, galleries, and restaurants typically open Wed.-Sat., and we were there on Monday). However, we did take a short jaunt along Highland Ave. and perused the one of the Paisano Hotel’s gift shops, which has an impressive art book section.

Sadly, the Chinati Foundation was closed, but in search of more art, we proceeded onward to the Prada Marfa art installation, about 5 miles past Valentine on US 90. Built in 2005 by Berlin artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, the structure still attracts curious tourists like ourselves, and also a man from Germany who was just leaving as we arrived.

There was still enough daylight left that afternoon for a side trip to Fort Davis, which we took via Hwy. 166, a scenic drive with spectacular views of the Davis Mountains. We stopped at Fort Davis National Historic Site and took a short hike up to a vantage point of a sprawling overview of the fort. We then drove to Indian Lodge, and explored the grounds to consider for a future stay. Our last stop was in downtown Fort Davis, where on State St., we found charming shops, inns and cafés, such as the Fort Davis Drug Store and Old Texas Inn, which even has a soda fountain. On the way out, we were wowed by the classic architecture and distinctive clock tower of the Jeff Davis County Courthouse. Our West Texas wanderlust was sated for the day.

After touring three towns on Day One, a more relaxing agenda was in store for Day Two. After a leisurely breakfast at the Marathon Coffee Shop, we visited photographer, writer, and artist E. Dan Klepper (who is also a frequent TH contributor) at his Klepper Gallery. I have long appreciated E. Dan’s artful images and compelling words, but I was awestruck by his graceful, minimalist assemblages of baling wire and various found objects.

It was finally time to explore the outdoors, so around noon we trekked toward Big Bend National Park. With the remaining time on our trip dwindling, we chose to hike the Window Trail. This popular trail is relatively short (5.6 mi.) and easy to navigate. However, we couldn’t help but stop every so often to gasp—not due to exertion but to admire the stunning mountain formations and surface textures. At the end of the trail, the Window’s ledge opens to a jaw-dropping, magnificent vista. On the way back, we spotted not only hawks, deer, and javelinas, but musician/artist David Byrne and a companion walking toward the Window. “Once in a lifetime?” to quote one of his Talking Heads hits.

Due to the short time and full days, we had dinner at the Gage, either in 12 Gage restaurant or White Buffalo Bar. Despite the voracious appetite worked up from the hike, White Buffalo Bar‘s Venison Fajita Black Bean Nachos made for a sumptuous meal for both of us.

On our final day, Wednesday, before heading home, we drove back to Marfa in hope of touring the Chinati Foundation as it would be open, but our luck ran out when we found the tour had sold out for the morning. So we had a delightful Swiss-inspired breakfast of knackwurst with eggs at squeezemarfa, and walked across the street to the Presidio County Courthouse to climb the stairs to the courthouse tower. The tower boasts astounding panoramic views. I thought I could almost see clear to Alpine!

Before this trip, it had been many years since either of us had been to Big Bend. This somewhat whirlwind visit will set the stage for more (and longer) trips to come, hopefully sooner than later.

Illustration by Christopher Jagmin

For Chinese New Year, Year of the Dragon 2012, my daughter Lucy, my boyfriend David and I celebrated with dinner at Asia Cafe in Austin.  Asia Cafe serves Sichuan (or Szechuan) Chinese cuisine, known for its hot and spicy seasonings.  The Chinese food here is by far the most authentic I’ve had in Austin—both in taste and presentation.

Asia Cafe is simple and casual: walk up to the counter, grab a menu and place your order. The number of items listed start at 115 and go through the 800s!  Luckily, I had a few dishes in mind: Whole Fish with Spicy Bean Sauce (which I had on a previous visit: succulent and flavorfully spicy), House Special Green Beans (Chinese long beans), and Sesame Tofu.  The entrée portions are generous, in keeping with the Chinese tradition of serving dishes family-style, so for the three of us, this was plenty.  Drinks (water, tea and soda only) and utensils are self-serve, along with small bowls—not plates—for sharing (another touch of authenticity: in Chinese households, meals are typically eaten from bowls).

As it turned out, the Whole Fish with Spicy Bean Sauce had already sold out, as this dish is considered “lucky” to eat for the New Year. So we went with a similar entrée on the specials board, House Whole Fish with Garlic and Peppers. When our meal was ready to be picked up at the counter, the fish arrived on an enormous platter, ringed with copious amounts of soft garlic cloves (the mild taste and texture reminded me of miniature new potatoes) and tiny cherry peppers in a piquant peppercorn sauce.  The tasty long beans had that just-right crunchy-yet-tender texture, and the delicately-seasoned sesame tofu was firm, with a crispy coating.

As expected, Asia Cafe was buzzing on this New Year’s night. A couple of private rooms off to the side hosted festive gatherings (and brought their own wine), and the line at the counter was continuous but quick.  As in most “authentic” Asian restaurants, groups of Chinese diners were in attendance, but I also saw many non-Asians, possibly those from other cities who’ve had a taste of China and craving the real deal.

Asia Café is a bit of a trek from my home in south Austin, but well worth it.  Next time I won’t wait until Lunar New Year (2013 is Year of the Snake) to get my Chinese food fix.

My sister Joan was in Austin last weekend visiting from Dallas, and we decided to forgo the usual big-city haunts and spend an afternoon in Smithville.  I had written about Smithville’s movie-town status in November TH, and Joan wanted to explore downtown Smithville.

Comfort Cafe's Chicken-Curry Salad

We began with lunch at Comfort Cafe, just off Main St., where I dined on one of my research trips but regrettably didn’t have room to include in my story.  (I was pleased to see in the January issue, Bob McClure had written a Reader Recommendation on the chicken salad at the café.)  I have had the chicken-curry salad and it was sweetly refreshing.  Since I hadn’t eaten breakfast yet, I chose the Sammy Bennie, one of three Eggs Benedict dishes on the extensive breakfast/lunch menu. Generously topped with hollandaise sauce over two fluffy poached eggs, salmon and English muffins, the dish was satisfying yet didn’t make me feel overstuffed. Joan opted for a freshly-made Potato Florentine Soup with a side of field greens. Open for breakfast and lunch, Comfort Cafe will also begin serving on Friday nights, 6-9 p.m. starting Feb. 3.

We strolled down Main St. and stopped at Tom-Kat Paper Dolls, as Joan has fond memories of playing with and collecting paper dolls growing up in Hong Kong.  As I mentioned in the November story, I continue to be amazed at the range and scope of sartorial themes played out in illustrator/shop owner Tom Tierney’s paper-doll books.  Some of the newest ones depict the royal newlyweds William and Kate and the late fashion designer Alexander McQueen.  Joan bought a book of designer fashions from the 1950s-90s, and we marveled at and recalled some of the trends of those times.

As with many small-town downtowns, Smithville’s Main Street has antiques stores galore. But we discovered a new and somewhat different type of shop, Sacs on Main Resale Boutique, which opened two weeks ago and swarming with customers.  Sacs is much like Buffalo Exchange—trendy and youthful resale womens apparel but without the cramped racks.  There are also new, handcrafted accessories in the mix, such as headbands topped with fabric flowers and jewelry from next door neighbor Scattered Light.  Be sure to check out the back room of the store—everything is $1, and I saw some great buys, like a tailored vintage black brocade cape, and a slim brown floral 60s-inspired sheath dress.

It was a relaxing yet not unfamiliar change of pace from our usual Austin jaunts.

In 2008, I posted a blog of tips for attending Austin City Limits Music Festival that have made my experience more enjoyable. Much has changed in three years, and some tips bear repeating. As in ’08, we can look forward to slightly cooler temperatures (albeit in the 90s) and an equally stellar lineup befitting ACL Fest’s tenth anniversary. Foster the People, Coldplay, Kanye West, Fitz and the Tantrums, Stevie Wonder, My Morning Jacket, Fleet Foxes, and Arcade Fire are among the must-see acts on my list (though I realize I’ll be forced to choose which headliner to see Friday-Saturday)! As with the PBS show, ACL Fest always features a wealth of talent to appeal to a variety of musical genres. So if you’re going for one day or all three, here are some of my favorite tips. Also, the ACL Fest website and Austin360.com has helpful advice as well.

No smoking, no kidding: Thanks to the record-breaking drought and heat this summer, there s absolutely no smoking or any kind (for music fans of a certain age, the Bic lighter salute is now on an iPhone app!). Please heed the warning signs throughout the park and in the surrounding areas. Remember the Bastrop County wildfire and similar fires that have flared throughout the state, and give generously to fire-relief efforts you’ll see in and around the park, and the city this weekend.

Eat well (and drink water) early and often: I’ve noticed that the long dinnertime lines form from 5-ish ’til just before the 8 p.m. headliners take the stage, so grab a late lunch/early dinner around 3-4 pm and go back for ice cream later. Besides fest favorite Hudson’s on the Bend’s Mighty Cone, there are plenty of sumptuous options from local fine-dining establishments, like Aquarelle, Bess, Garrido’s, Mandola’s, and Olivia. Aquarelle’s steak frites sandwich, Wahoo’s fish tacos, or Boomerang’s pies (depending on which line is shorter, or what I’m craving) usually make for a tasty and satisfying meal for me. This year, I’m also looking forward to sampling Olivia’s fried chicken and Odd Duck Farm to Trailer’s grilled pork belly sliders.

Chair or no chair (or bag): I don’t bring a chair ’cause I like to move around, but if you prefer to have a seat, note that some stages have designated chair zones farther from the stage. And there’s a chair and bag check-in area near the Lady Bird Lake entrance if you don’t want to lug it around when you want to get closer to the music.

Getting there: Once again, due to the extremely dry ground conditions, parking on the grassy areas is strictly prohibited. Don’t do it! The ACL Fest website has a full list of parking/drop-off suggestions, including the free parking shuttle from Republic Square. You can also bike there, or take a bus route that goes to or near the Lamar/Barton Springs Rd. intersection. From there, it’s a 10-15 minute walk to the fest. Please note that Sunday night bus schedules for most routes end around 9 p.m., so you’ll want to plan an alternate departure.

Hope these tips help enchance your ACL Fest experience. And I hope you’ll comment to share some of your own tips, too!

Next door to the Texas Prison Museum sits a noteworthy historical museum in its own right. The H.E.A.R.T.S. Veterans Museum (the acronym stands for Helping Every American Remember Through Serving) opened in 2009, and contains battle paraphernalia and personal mementos donated by veterans and their families, from the Civil War up to the current conflict in Afghanistan.

In addition to military gear, dress uniforms, flags, patches, and medals, the museum also displays letters written by soldiers to their loved ones, along with journals, and books written by military personnel documenting the horrors of war and bittersweet homecomings. I was impressed by the magnitude of the collection in a relatively small space. Both World War I and II displays seem extensive, even down to an unused schoolbook note pad from World War I. Women’s contributions in wartime, particularly World War II are represented with various W.A.C. uniforms and grooming accessories, and photos documenting factory work on the home front. Nearly as extensive is the section from the Vietnam War, which as a child I remember from TV news. Seeing the captured flags and other objects, among soldiers’ memoirs as told through letters and books was quite compelling.

Viewing this memorabilia and reading the personal histories of these soldiers gives me pause, as I consider the enormous sacrifices these men and women have made, especially as we observe Memorial Day.

Phlox, bluebonnets, and wild mustard near Ottine, by J. Griffis Smith

Thanks to a ground-parched autumn, Texas wildflowers have been less prolific this spring. However, guaranteed wildflower viewing can always be found in the pages of our April issue. And you can see all 20 of these images on enlarged prints, courtesy of Canon, for one week, May 2-8 at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center as part of National Wildflower Week in the McDermott Learning Center. Photos by James Volosin, Laurence Parent, Andy Sharp, Charles Carlson, Lance Varnell, and TH Photo Editor Griff Smith capture bluebonnets, Indian paintbrush, coreopsis, phlox, verbena, and other flowers along Texas roadsides and trails.

While wildflower-display mainstays such as Llano, Burnet and Washington County are included in this year’s photo collection, the Ennis and Leakey areas also showed strong coverage. Last spring, while on assignment for another feature, Griff Smith discovered abundant and dazzling color along unpaved Cheapside Road in DeWitt County. Which goes to show, you never know where you might find a flash of spring flower-power in Texas, regardless of region or weather conditions.

photo courtesy Dorothy Huang

In January 2010’s TH Taste, I wrote a brief mention of the Chinese New Year Feast hosted by cooking instructor Dorothy Huang, Martin Yan (of PBS’ Yan Can Cook), and restaurant owner/chef Hoi Fung at his Fung’s Kitchen in Houston. The event, held over two nights, was a sold-out success, and the team brought back this popular Lunar New Year banquet for 2011’s Year of the Rabbit. Luckily for me, I was able to attend this year, and it is truly a feast for the senses, as well as the appetite.

The evening opened with a trio of lion dancers, which snaked their way to and from every table, playfully wagging and begging for “lucky money” from guests. Red envelopes were provided at each table for those wanting to contribute to the fun.

Following the lion dancers were several troupes of Asian girls ranging from five-year-olds to pre-teens performing traditional Chinese dances. Adorable and delightful!

We enjoyed a nine-course tasting immediately after the performances, with accompanying cooking demos of most of the dishes by Chef Fung, Martin Yan, and Dorothy Huang. Entrees included Chinese classics such as Peking duck (very succulent!), lobster in black pepper sauce, sweet-and-sour fish, and also Chinese style filet mignon, along with shrimp fried rice for good luck. After the sumptuous, scrumptious meal, our hosts greeted diners at each table and we toasted the Rabbit Year with red wine and cognac—“ganbei!” (cheers!).

Earlier in the day, I tried to visit the now-shuttered Forbidden Gardens, and mourned the passing of a Houston-area Chinese cultural treasure. Could Fung’s Kitchen New Year’s Feast somehow mark the birth of another?

Hiding in Plain Sight, the Menil Collection feature in the December issue reveals one of my favorite “hideaways” from the holiday frenzy when I visit family in Houston. Luckily, my brother Louis lives within a short driving distance, making the Menil a frequent museum haunt, plus admission is free.

I look forward to strolling through the Surrealist and Modern Art sections, and also visiting some of my favorites in the collection, such as Jasper Johns’ Gray Alphabet (if you’re not familiar with this work, the title says it all) and the Sumerian statue of Eannatum, Prince of Lagash in the Antiquities room, the piece I affectionately call “Chauncey Gardner” as it bears a resemblance to the Peter Sellers character in the film Being There.

However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that there are areas of the Menil which I’ve never explored, such as the Cy Twombly or Dan Flavin galleries, vibrantly depicted in December’s feature. On my next visit, I’ll make time to experience it. And I’ll be sure to ride the red swing on the museum grounds, another “installation” I’ve never noticed.