photo courtesy Dorothy Huang

In January 2010’s TH Taste, I wrote a brief mention of the Chinese New Year Feast hosted by cooking instructor Dorothy Huang, Martin Yan (of PBS’ Yan Can Cook), and restaurant owner/chef Hoi Fung at his Fung’s Kitchen in Houston. The event, held over two nights, was a sold-out success, and the team brought back this popular Lunar New Year banquet for 2011’s Year of the Rabbit. Luckily for me, I was able to attend this year, and it is truly a feast for the senses, as well as the appetite.

The evening opened with a trio of lion dancers, which snaked their way to and from every table, playfully wagging and begging for “lucky money” from guests. Red envelopes were provided at each table for those wanting to contribute to the fun.

Following the lion dancers were several troupes of Asian girls ranging from five-year-olds to pre-teens performing traditional Chinese dances. Adorable and delightful!

We enjoyed a nine-course tasting immediately after the performances, with accompanying cooking demos of most of the dishes by Chef Fung, Martin Yan, and Dorothy Huang. Entrees included Chinese classics such as Peking duck (very succulent!), lobster in black pepper sauce, sweet-and-sour fish, and also Chinese style filet mignon, along with shrimp fried rice for good luck. After the sumptuous, scrumptious meal, our hosts greeted diners at each table and we toasted the Rabbit Year with red wine and cognac—“ganbei!” (cheers!).

Earlier in the day, I tried to visit the now-shuttered Forbidden Gardens, and mourned the passing of a Houston-area Chinese cultural treasure. Could Fung’s Kitchen New Year’s Feast somehow mark the birth of another?

Hiding in Plain Sight, the Menil Collection feature in the December issue reveals one of my favorite “hideaways” from the holiday frenzy when I visit family in Houston. Luckily, my brother Louis lives within a short driving distance, making the Menil a frequent museum haunt, plus admission is free.

I look forward to strolling through the Surrealist and Modern Art sections, and also visiting some of my favorites in the collection, such as Jasper Johns’ Gray Alphabet (if you’re not familiar with this work, the title says it all) and the Sumerian statue of Eannatum, Prince of Lagash in the Antiquities room, the piece I affectionately call “Chauncey Gardner” as it bears a resemblance to the Peter Sellers character in the film Being There.

However, I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that there are areas of the Menil which I’ve never explored, such as the Cy Twombly or Dan Flavin galleries, vibrantly depicted in December’s feature. On my next visit, I’ll make time to experience it. And I’ll be sure to ride the red swing on the museum grounds, another “installation” I’ve never noticed.

With the impending launch of Space Shuttle Discovery’s last voyage (and end of the Shuttle program in early 2011), it was about time that I finally explored Space Center Houston, if only for a couple of hours during a short visit to Bay Area Houston last week.

While I didn’t have time for the in-depth NASA Tram Tour or Level 9 Tour, I was able to focus my attention on several areas of the complex: Starship Gallery, which follows the progression of the Space Race from the 1960s through Skylab, complete with some of the actual capsules and equipment; the Astronaut Gallery, a dazzling collection of spacesuits worn by men and women in space; the massive-beyond-words Saturn V spacecraft housed at Rocket Park, and even took in a “Meet the Astronaut” talk given by Michael J. Bloomfield of Shuttle Atlantis and Endeavor missions.

The vivid timelines that accompany the Starship Gallery and the Saturn V rocket brought back memories of seeing Apollo launches on (mostly black & white) televisions in elementary school. Peering into the Mercury capsule in the space-simulated display and imagining myself in that tiny crawl space gave me a claustrophobic chill. I also touched a moon rock and saw how moon artifacts were processed and analyzed. In the Astronaut Gallery, I marveled at the contrast between the enormous “Michelin Man” bubble suit worn during the early days of the Gemini program, and the sleek blue jumpsuit worn on the Shuttle mission by Sally Ride.

Next time you find yourself in the Bay area, don’t discount a trip to NASA for lack of time. You’ll be amazed at how much “space” can be compacted into two hours.

Amy Sedaris with David Rakoff in the Cooking Tent promoting her book, "I Like You" in 2006.

Little known tip: The humor and satire book events at the Texas Book Festival (this weekend, Oct. 16-17 at the Capitol) are as entertaining and hilarious as what you’d expect at a comedy club minus the hefty cover charge, rude hecklers, and the two-drink minimum. And you don’t even have to like books to enjoy the show.

In recent years attending the fest, I’ve been regaled with such performances from the editors of The Onion (presenting clips and quips from “Our Dumb World: Atlas of the Planet Earth”) and Amy Sedaris promoting her book (“I Like You: Hospitality Under the Influence”) in the Cooking Tent.

I look forward to Saturday’s roster with such LOL luminaries as P.J. O’Rourke, The Onion’s Jean Tisdale, and National Lampoon’s Rick Meyerowitz. There’s even a panel titled “Funny Business: Good Reads for Guys.”

Scanning the lineup for Sunday, another panel with “funny’ in the title: “Not All That Noir: Wickedly Funny Crime Fiction.”

Preceding that, perhaps with equal parts style and satire, is “True Prep: It’s a Whole New Old World,” from the author of the ’80s classic, “The Official Preppy Handbook,” Lisa Birnbach, with noted book designer Chip Kidd.

If you go to the festival this weekend, bring your sense of humor, and maybe even a book bag. Even if you’re not a book lover, you may still be overcome with laughter after hearing wild and crazy antics from the National Lampoon session.

P.S. Look for the Texas Highways booth at the festival’s exhibitor tents. Some of our staff will be handing out free copies of the November issue, which includes a special subscription offer at our lowest rate. Also, Editor Charles Lohrmann will be moderating various panels, but alas, not National Lampoon’s.

The chopstick wrapper may say "good luck," but you won't need it at Sushi-A-Go-Go. From left: Dynamite Roll and Sunshine Roll.

I’ve been curious to try Sushi-A-Go-Go in Austin ever since its mention in Nov. ‘09’s TH Taste on Dining Trailerside. Sushi from a trailer?

As stated in the article, Sushi-A-Go-Go has since moved from Manor Rd. There are now two locations: 4001 Medical Pkwy. (in the Shell parking lot) and 801 Barton Springs Rd., which opened in May.

Sushi-A-Go-Go offers a voluminous menu of sushi rolls plus shu-mai (shrimp dumplings) and mochi ice cream. I’ve dined at the Barton Springs location twice this summer, and despite the parking lot location, it’s cooler and more comfortable than you’d think, sitting on picnic benches under giant umbrellas with an intermittent breeze, savoring the cool sushi combos and feeling your internal temperature drop a few degrees. For those who prefer eating in air-conditioned comfort, you can also call in your Sushi-A-Go-Go to-go.

The sushi rolls, 8 pieces per order, contained small but fresh cuts of seafood. I ordered the Dynamite roll (tuna in a spicy sauce with avocado), and my daughter Lucy had the Sunshine Roll (salmon, mango, and avocado). We also shared some shu-mai.

The zesty ahi tuna rapidly slid and dissolved in my mouth. I also sampled the salmon roll, and the mango-avocado duo gave a slightly sweet and nutty flavor to the silky-smooth, savory salmon. The shu-mai (served warm) was lightly crisped, plump and juicy.

Most of the rolls average around $6, cheaper than supermarket sushi, and made to order.  On a hot summer day, Sushi-A-Go-Go is my go-to for a light, enticing, and budget-friendly meal.

After a day of packing up my daughter’s belongings at Austin College in Sherman for the return trip home to the city of Austin, we decided to have dinner in Denison, and Devolli’s was recommended by one of her friends.

Devolli’s, in downtown Denison (home to the town’s flourishing arts district, see TH March 2008), serves Italian food favorites, including several types of parmigianas. I had sausage parmigiana, served over spaghetti which was subtly spiced and garlicked. I had a craving for basic Italian fare, and this entrée hit the spot.

An added bonus to dinner was entertainment provided by trumpeter Alan Isley, accompanied by a karaoke machine. Playing classic standards ranging from Willie Nelson tunes to the theme from the Pink Panther, it made for a surprising treat after a long day.

Homestead Winery (vineyard in nearby Ivanhoe) shares the building with Devolli’s, and their wines are exclusively served in the restaurant. I had a glass of Homestead’s special red wine blend, Rose of Ivanhoe, which was sweet and fruity. I usually drink drier reds, but I found Rose delightfully refreshing.

I spent a rainy Saturday evening in Dallas with my sister, Joan and my daughter, Lucy strolling the Bishop Arts District. Despite the soggy weather, we were able to explore many of the shops covered in the February TH feature on Bishop Arts, and then some. With its mix of modern and vintage retail wares, casual cafés and upscale restaurants, and friendly, relaxed ambiance, the Bishop Arts District felt more like Austin to us than Dallas.

But even while seeing the magazine’s feature in production, I didn’t realize how much the area has grown in the number of stores and cafes from my last visit five years ago. We were pleasantly surprised to find more contemporary, and even affordable styles at shops such as Ouch! Fashion, as well as the venerable Zola’s Everyday Vintage, still a cut above with its designer finds (More Pucci than I’ve ever seen since the ‘60s!)

Another sign of progress: Joan had dined at Hattie’s a couple of times previously, and never needed a reservation on a weekend evening, so we decided to drop in. By the time we arrived just before 7 p.m., the place was packed, and the host had to regretfully turn people away if they didn’t have reservations. All of the nearby restaurants, including Tillman’s Roadhouse were quickly filling up, so we walked a few blocks further to Café Madrid, a longtime Bishop Arts haunt, for tapas. We were astounded by the entrée-sized portions of Spanish Potato Omelette and Grilled Marinated Chicken—Texas-sized tapas! The calamari was more typically-scaled, but offered in a generous serving, delicately fried and slightly chewy-yet-tender.

Heavy rain cut short our time for more Bishop-hopping, so we headed to the Belmont Hotel, where Lucy and I were staying. I have heard raves about this place from friends who’ve stayed there, even those who have family in Dallas or are Dallas residents. They all speak of a “doesn’t seem like Dallas” feel, from the hotel’s hillside perch (where you’ll happen to find an excellent view of the downtown skyline), to the curvy pathways and gardens meandering around the suites and the pool area, and the hip-yet-gracious staff. The BarBelmont near the lobby was packed with hotel guests and bar patrons, even more so with the steady rain keeping folks from gathering on the adjacent terrace. I managed to elbow my way in to enjoy a Belmontini and was well-rewarded by the smooth, tart concoction.

Recalling our visit to Bishop Arts earlier, browsing bottles at the Soda Gallery reminded me of an old ad campaign for 7-Up Cola: “7-Up is the UnCola.” Based on my weekend, one could make the case for Bishop Arts District and the Belmont Hotel as the “UnDallas.”

The trailer-café craze that has consumed Austin tends to be a mostly daytime affair, with many if not most in my neighborhood rolling up their windows by sunset.  I was delighted to discover that Odd Duck Farm to Trailer at 1219 S. Lamar begins serving at 5 p.m., perfect for “cook’s night out” (the “cook” in this case being me).

An intriguing menu, which changes daily, also piqued my interest. Odd Duck offers up appetizers and entrées that adhere to the rediscovered “nose-to-tail” philosophy, which means using ingredients from local farms, and with meats, using every edible part.  (Read more about restaurants using nose-to-tail principles, including nearby Olivia in March 2010 TH Taste).

At prices ranging from $3-7, Odd Duck offers an affordable foodie foray from an inventive chef, Bryce Gilmore. Gilmore, a California Culinary Academy alumnus who has worked at Moonshine and Wink in Austin, Café 909 in Marble Falls, Boulevard in San Francisco, and Montagna at the Little Nell in Aspen, got his start in the kitchen of his father Jack Gilmore’s Z’Tejas Grill in Austin.

For my dinnertime adventure, I chose rabbit braised in pale ale and mustard with poached duck egg over creamy turnip grits. A hint of Parmesan in this luscious stew gave the dish a slightly tart and pleasantly salty taste. The flavor and texture reminded me of Chinese jook or congee (rice porridge), especially when combined with the turnip grits.  The rabbit was tender, and had a slightly smoky aroma, which further enhanced the combination.

The entree portions tend to be on the small side, so on my next visit, I’ll be sure to order more!

If you’re planning to tour Quirky Houston, I suggest you start your day with breakfast. On a recent visit, my daughter tipped me off to Baby Barnaby’s, next door to its big brother Barnaby’s Café (which serves lunch and dinner) in the Montrose area, the birthplace of Houston-quirky.
This colorful café is cozy, casual, and cheap. The menu features a few whimsically named items like Green Eggs (eggs scrambled with spinach, artichoke hearts, and jack cheese) as well as breakfast basics, like bacon-and-eggs and pancakes. City-diner staples such as the Lox Platter, and Corned Beef Hash and Eggs are offered, along with Tex-Mex favorites like breakfast tacos, migas and huevos rancheros. My daughter had the Lox Platter and I had the basic Breakfast Plate with scrambled eggs, bacon, toast, and grits. Both the standard fare and the lox/bagel/cream cheese were prepared “just-right,” as were the portions—not too filling and perfect for packing in a day to tour Houston’s quirky sights.
Houston brims with quirky breakfast places. Tell us about your favorite Quirky Houston breakfast spot.

Last Saturday, I went to Houston’s Bayou City Art Festival Downtown with my sister, Jean. I recently discovered that this festival had a former life as the Westheimer Art Festival, which I attended over 30 years ago. Jean had never been to either incarnation of this festival but remembered hearing tales of the Haight-Ashbury-esque ambiance of the Westheimer fest. I can attest that all traces of patchouli, tie-dye, and overall weirdness were pretty much absent at the Bayou City Art Fest. In its place, I found art at its finest in many forms—whimsical sculpture, exquisite jewelry from beads to jewels, purses carved from wood, paintings in various media, including scratchboard, a favorite technique I learned back in art school.

The food has come a long way from funnel cakes and turkey legs. I sampled a tasty ceviche at “Epicurean Adventure”— where chefs from some of the city’s top restaurants like (the aptly named) Artista serve up food tastings throughout the day.  I also had a chance to meet the very cordial chef David Cordua, who is also director of restaurant operations for Artista, Churrasco’s, Amazon Grill and Americas.

I learned from festival board members Nadia Troutenko and Bien Tran that the spring component of the Bayou City Art Festival, held at Memorial Park, has a much different feel, and different roster of artists than the more urban, street-fair vibe of the downtown fest. I may have to find out for myself next spring!