Fearing’s in Dallas
Friday, March 28th, 2008Speaking of hot restaurants: Someone call the fire department, because Dean Fearing’s new restaurant in Dallas, Fearing’s, is on fire. OK, figuratively speaking. The Dallas chef has been lavished with more praise in the past couple of months – mostly in the past few weeks – than any Texas food person since Helen Corbitt. About 18 months ago, Dean left the Mansion on Turtle Creek after nearly 20 years there, and last August he opened his own restaurant in the brand-new Ritz-Carlton in Dallas. At year’s end, food scribe John Mariani declared in Esquire magazine that Fearing’s new namesake restaurant was the best new restaurant of the year. In early March, Julia Reed wrote in a Newsweek magazine article called “Chicken-Fried Gourmet” that “it may just be one of the best new spots in the country.” Two weeks later, the vaunted Frank Bruni of The New York Times declared Dean’s buffalo tenderloin and mesquite-grilled rib eye “fantastic” and said this owner-chef “a giant striding through the restaurant in calfskin boots, deserves thanks for evenings as irresistibly flashy and meaty as Texas itself.” With all that, plus a James Beard Award nomination for Best New Restaurant announced earlier this week, Fearing remains just good, old Dean. When I visited with him about all this renewed glory, he displayed his trademark aw-shucks disposition and said, “The future looks bright, because the present is really good.” The restaurant, which has lots of different dining rooms with distinct personalities, is loads of fun. The food really is terrific, too; best of all may be the Sunday brunch, the only time you can get Granny Fearing’s Paper Bag-Shook Fried Chicken, which is pan-fried and named among the area’s best fried-chicken in a story by Bill Addison in today’s Dallas Morning News. Fearing’s is at 2121 McKinney Ave. in Dallas; 214/922-4848; www.fearingsrestaurant.com.
